DAY 31. June 28th. Àreu to Vallferrera.

Since getting to Encamp would be too much we treat ourselves to an easy day and Manel has managed to contact the refuge at Vallferrera to book us in (the only guests). One of the problems of the GR11 has been reception on the mobiles which is understandable in the mountains but it doesn’t help that in Catalunya there is a new system of centralized reservations which has a limited timetable to call which makes it almost impossible. Someone in “civilization” with time to call is essential as back-up. The refuge is being rebuilt but the same efficient and friendly woman is working there so we had a great afternoon and lovely dinner (best chips of the trip). No storms today. Colin darns his socks. A few nerves about the state of the snow tomorrow as it’s one of the highest spots of the route. Early start to hit the snow before it gets soft.

DAY 32. June 29th. Vallferrera to Arans.

Early start after a good night’s sleep. Pleasant walk up to the refugi that looks like an American trailer tied to a rock. Colin loves it and he’s right. The English book explains that we can take an easier route if we find snow but it’s not too clear about which way to go. The marks seem to disappear and there is snow and scree but it’s not dangerous. Over the pass however there’s masses of snow. Starting early was our saving grace and the snow is hard  and in shade. Maybe 3 hours of walking on snow in total. After the snow we come across another refuge which is just a tin shed and wonderful views of the valley of Arinsal where it gets greener and greener as you go down. Arinsal is a dump and we have a bad pint of Guinness on the high street and then find a cash-point. A steep climb up from Arinsal and we meet a Dutch couple coming down who warn us that it’s a long way up. As we start our descent the storm hits and we try to run although it’s very slippery and steep on the way to Arans. Unbelievably heavy rain and we get to the edge of Arans and seek whatever shelter the entrance to a private garage can give us. I can’t find my camera for a moment and when I do we dance for joy in the rain. Soaked, soaked, soaked. A hotel is not far and it’s an aparthotel with a BATH! Put everything out to dry but the heating’s not on. Walk to the next hotel for an average dinner and the heavens open again so we stay in the bar with the Germans watching the football.