Leave Elizondo in the cold and drizzle after breakfast in the bakers near the church. Up, up, up, water, water, water. Begin to understand that the GR11 consists of up in the morning, up and down after that and finally down, down, down into a town. Get to Puerto de Urkiaga down route of many bunkers, refuges and pigeon-hunting towers. Urkiaga dark, spooky and damp so decide to try to make it to the collado. Camp but it rains and is freezing. Ferrino sleeping bags recommended by Intemperie are absolutely useless. Can’t sleep and knee hurts. Laxative taken the night before was a big mistake! Wait in tent in the morning in the hope that it warms up, but no sun, just cloud.
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