Yesterday we surpassed the stated hours in the books by over 4 hours and today sticks to this rule. Get up early and hobble stiffly to get bread and cakes from nice bakers down the hill in Bera. Climb up the hill in mist and see the sun break through the trees. Make tea at the bunker at the top which seems to be above the clouds. Set the gas canister on fire for entertainment. Sunny. Terrible hay fever. Farm-land, beech trees, views of valleys, up, down, up, down. Heavy rain, get wet changing and then it stops. Mud, mud, mud. Sheep, ponies, cows, vultures, bit lost, bunkers, refuges. Cyclist passes us. Tired and slow. Long, long way down to Elizondo, sporadic rain…enough to keep us damp. Entering town meet nice couple who walk with us to hotel Casa Eskisaroi which is a dump but clean, friendly and incredibly cheap. Like Elizondo a lot. Dinner at Hotel Trinkete very good (€72 for 3 with 2 bottles of wine). Good sleep but beds terrible.
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