DAY 8. June 5th. CASAS DE IRATI TO OCHAGAVIA

The smoke that drove us out.

Only 4.30 hours walking today although 820m ascension. Pleasant weather, no rain, cold up high. Hard climb through woods. Little food. Down pretty valley from 1500m to nice but lifeless town of Ochagavia. Can’t find a room so go to the very basic camp-site. Water not hot, feel very cold. Get washing done in machine. Go to town for dinner in hotel (as that’s the only place to go). Average food, not friendly. English couple on next table from the Cotswolds who know a lot about the Pyrenees and birds. Buy gas and thermal t-shirt in shop under flats on the way back to the camp-site. Also go to supermarket and butchers. Sleep well, Sandy doesn’t. Rain in the morning. Large breakfast in the campsite was great but not cheap.

DAY 9. June 6th. OCHAGAVIA TO ISABA

Tea break in a refuge on the way.

Rain, rain, rain until about 2pm.  Boring pista lined with pine trees all morning. When we get a view we get carried away and miss the turning to Isaba, adding about 2 hours onto the day and leading astray 2 men from Galicia who are also doing the same section…..sorry! Heavy, muddy descent to Isaba, bad right knee. Isaba nice, pretty and alive. Pension Txiki friendly and has bar and food. Tiny room for 3 with broken shower door and holder for shower-head but beds are good and the water hot. They also listen to Radio 3 in the bar. Had posh dinner in Hostal Lola next door (€80) which was good, especially the puddings and wine and lack of smoking. Noisy and full of men.