DAY 38. PLANOLES TO NURIA

Decided to take the easier route which I think was the GR11.8. This route avoids going down to Queralbs for no reason except maybe to eat and back up again. Pleasant enough walk but maybe a little long towards the end. A bit hot and getting nearer Núria meant having to encounter civilization. Núria was the usual Disneyland of the mountains with the bride on the lawn and the day-trippers in their pedal-pushers. Coincided with the Núria-Queralt mountain run. The pseudo-religious, super-profit making organization (The Church) at Núria permit camping round the back on gravel and charge a few Euros (sorry, can’t remember how much) to pitch and have a completely cold shower. Dinner is a sorry buffet affair in the hotel which costs you €22 without a glass of wine. The maitre d was a megla-maniac who seemed to be sacking people and reinstating them in between setting the tables. Helped out 2 American girls from San Francisco who had come up to spend the night with no tent and nowhere to stay by giving them warm clothes for the night. They were very lucky it didn’t rain.

DAY 39. NURIA TO SET CASES

Fortunately Sandy’s nerves cleared up as did the black clouds first thing and we decided to take the high road (the highest point of the GR11). An early start and non- frozen American girls waved us off. Steady climb, ate a bit before the worst bit. Up to the pass and turn right when the wind and hail hits. Wrap up, crouch down when I feel like I’m about to take off. Go a bit wrong and things look hairy for a minute but we find the path over more to the right and continue along a fascinating chain of peaks. Weather clears up although clouds coming up from Núria threaten worse. Rainbow. Lovely views. Coll de la Marrana. People. Ulldeter refuge being done up. Vallter 2000. People. Down following the river. Tired. Out to road to Set Cases which is a PAIN in the feet. Get to Set Cases in time for late lunch at Cal Jopet. Eventually find room at La Cabanya for €30 (get 2). Long lunch with first bottle of cava to celebrate the end of the snow and conquest of highest point of GR, although it didn’t feel like it. Cal Jopet has gone posh….more expensive, trendy plates and fancy puddings….I think I liked it better before. Hole up in hotel room, long siesta and never make it out again. They give us a picnic instead of breakfast so we can get away early. Big storm during the night.